What I say:
Noryangjin Seafood Market is the “Tsukiji” of Seoul, South Korea, and a great attraction if.. well.. you are into fish. There are many endless rows of fish and shellfish. Some are live; some frozen; others fermented and kimchi-ed.
In my opinion, there isn’t an awful lot of spectacle that gave me a rush like at Tsukiji. The ambiance at Noryangjin is much more relaxed and accommodating. Tourists are allowed in any time and there is no market scooter to intimidate you. Also, at Noryangjin, fishmongers are happy to sell you everything at a price so cheap you will start swearing in Korean (!!). You can take your purchase to nearby restaurants to be cooked for you, too.
How To Get There:
There is an underground station Noryangjin just in front of the market. If taking a taxi, the address is as followed:
688, Nodeul-ro, Dongjak-gu, Seoul
서울특별시 동작구 노들로 688 (노량진동)
The official site (in Korean) is here.
Best To Go:
Noryangjin is opened nearly 24/7. I went there at about 9am and there was a pleasant bustle.
If going for a stroll, you can arrive as early/late as you want. If aiming for a meal (you can buy seafood and have it cooked at market restaurants), arrive before meal time and shop at ease.
What To Get:
Fish and shellfish, of course. The biggest differences between Noryangjin and Tsukiji are the fish and shellfish variations. This reflects not only what’s available locally but also divergent attitudes to eating.
Say, it is obvious that Koreans love even the weirdest species of shellfish, a few of which are rarely sold at Tsukiji. I came across live sea cucumbers, sea squirts, sea flowers, pen shells, etc. In this case, don’t let your curiosity direct your choice. Sea squirts did taste like when I chuckled sand and seawater. There are also eye-pleasing items, such as arc shells and (massive) abalones, too.
Octopi come in many, many sizes and supposedly one of the best sellers. Most of them are sold live. In Korea, live octopus sashimi or sannakji (산낙지) are true delicacies. They are instantly chopped up, tossed in sesame seed and oil, and served *still squirming*. As I had proved, it did take a while for these dissected creepy crawlers to stop moving. (VDO below, if you dare)!!
There are fish, of course (-__-”) but there is a distinct lack of tuna as the highly sought after items. The most prominent at Noryangjin seem to be yellowtail, flounder and halibut. The best of the bunch are caught in the waters around Jeju Island.
I also came across rows and rows of live fish tanks. In Korea, raw fish or hoe (회) is one of the most popular dishes. (Often dipped in soy sauce or chilli paste and eaten with herbal leaves).
Koreans believe the tastiest of hoe needs to come from the freshest of fish. Therefore, fish are killed, cut and served instantly. In Japan, the tastiest sashimi often goes through ageing and curing processes, tampering with both taste and texture.
I don’t know why..
But, it is noteworthy that all the hoe I have eaten to date were white fish. Maybe there’s a reason there?
What Else:
The true joy of Noryangjin is that you can actually buy these fish and seafood from the stalls and have them cooked at market restaurants. The cooking fee is very low. (I paid around £3-4 for it)!! The restaurants, however, aren’t the easiest to find. I gather there are a few of them in the block, which forms the front of the market. Mine was hidden in a basement (along that block). There is no sign in English.
I got some two octopi, two abalones (£3 each!!) and a spider crab. All alive and kicking. It came to £25 (already with cooking cost). The octopi and the abalones were served sashimi-ed. The crab was steamed. The fresh leaves, chilli, garlic and sauces were provided by the restaurant. (Best to research some Korean cooking vocabulary before you do this).
Now click here if you want to see my octopi wiggle!!
There are also more photos from the market here <*)))< <*)))< <*)))<
